TRIUMPH OVER ADVERSITY

Fulani Cattle Crossing

Africa
Mali

Photos

Fulani Herder
A Fulani cattle herder prepares to drive his cattle up the steep banks
of the Niger River.
Mudbrick Architecture
Fulani villagers living on the islands in the Niger River prepare for the
return of their herds. The mudbrick buildings in the villages, which
date back to the Islamic empires of the Middle Ages, are some of the
best examples of Sudanese architecture in the Sahel region.
Assembling the Herds
Before crossing, the herders assemble on the shore with their
hundreds of animals. Owners keep their herds segregated within the
large group, identifying each beast by its individual natural markings.
The herdsmen have named each of their cattle, and taught them to
respond to a distinctive flute call if they stray.
Before the Crossing
Young male relatives of the herdsmen who have not accompanied
the dry season migration come from the village to celebrate the
arrival of the herds. Chanting, they wave long round-headed cattle
sticks in anticipation of the crossing. As they approach the herds, the
youths belonging to an owner’s family carry a large strip-woven
blanket, which they hold up as a canopy over the heads of the cattle
before they enter the river.
The Cattle Crossing
As spectators watch from both sides of the river, two rifle shots are
fired to signal the beginning of the great crossing, called Luumbal.
Some of the herdsmen swim with their cattle, whipping the water
with their sticks to spur on the animals.
Fast-Moving Waters
Occasionally, a smaller cow will sink in the fast-moving water, and a
herder will pull it to the surface and prod it on its way. On the far
shore, herdsmen enter the water to drive the cattle up the slippery
banks.
Crossing by Pirogue
Shallow-draft pirogues make many trips across the river to collect
the herders who have not driven cattle across. Women and children
who have traveled with the herdsmen load their few possessions,
including the precious hollowed-out gourds called calabashes,
aboard the waiting pirogues for the final stage of their homeward
journey.
Treasured Possessions
A Fulani woman’s most treasured possessions are her calabashes.
Strong and light in weight, the calabashes shown here are working
vessels, used daily to store food and other possessions. Other highly
prized decorated calabashes represent a woman’s wealth, and are
used for ceremonial display. Women carry the calabashes on their
heads, balanced on coiled cloths and stacked up to several feet in
height.
Anointed with Indigo
Great lovers of beauty, the Fulani appreciate individual cattle for
more than the wealth they represent. Herders groom and decorate
their favorites by painting their hides, heads, and horns with pale
indigo dye in a variety of geometric patterns based on family
emblems.
Celebrating the Crossing
After the cattle have completed their crossing, the villagers hold a
celebration called Yaaral. Performers from a neighboring village of
Bozo fishermen, wearing large rectangular masks, conduct a ritual
dance to celebrate the success of the crossing.
Folkloric Traditions
At left: The griot responsible for the tribe’s oral tradition sings to the
accompaniment of his Hoddu lute, extolling the virtues and telling
the history of each herder family. At right: A musician keeps the beat
by rhythmically tapping his silver finger rings on a calabash as he
bends his agile body backward in a feat of balance and strength.
Admiring Suitors
After their long absence, the return of the young herders stimulates
an intense period of courtship in the village. Seductive eyes are
concealed by mirrored sunglasses, which the young men have
bought in market towns on their way home.
Radiating Charm
As evening approaches, the herders radiate flirtatious charm.
Amber and Gold
Young women help one another prepare for these long-awaited
occasions, adorning themselves with gold and amber jewelry. The
girls below, whose lips and gums were tattooed with blue ink for
beauty when they were children, wear magnificent large gold
earrings called Kwottenai Kanye that only wealthy families can afford
to give to their unmarried daughters.
Tugging the Turban
The nighttime celebration of the cattle crossing ends with a
courtship dance in the market square of the village. Young girls greet
the herders who gather before them. The chosen herder, along with
his best friend, responds by strutting out with rhythmic footsteps
toward the semicircle of girls, subtly acknowledging with his eyes the
girl who has chosen him. At the end of the dance the more
adventurous girls indicate the men of their choice by tugging on
their turbans.
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